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Henri IV - An unfinished reign

An industrial awakening

At the end of the 16th century, France was, more than anything, a great agricultural power. In industrial matters, it lagged well behind its European neighbours. What was more alarming was the fact that it imported a number of products, particularly textiles. Anxious to avert "capital flight" as he struggled to balance the budget, Henri IV resolved to develop French industry. His watchword: make it in France.

Although his interests extended into every domain, he was particularly interested in the textile sector. He knew that silk had long since replaced wool in the clothing of the well-to-do. He also knew that six million écus were spent every year on foreign silk, primarily from Italy. The idea was to produce within the borders of France what had formerly been purchased abroad. To do this, Henri IV called on the services of Barthélemy de Laffemas (1545–ca. 1612), a competent man who shared his views. In just a few years, de Laffemas, a Huguenot, had risen to become tailleur and premier valet of the king's bedchamber. In 1596, he submitted to Henri IV a report entitled Règlement général pour dresser les manufactures en ce royaume (General Rules for Establishing Manufactories in this Kingdom). In it, he advised reducing imports through developing royal manufactories support by the State.

Initially, importing finished silk products was forbidden. On the other hand, temporary permission was granted to import raw silk, so as to supply weavers in Lyon and Tours while France was developing its domestic silk production capacity. To do this, the king encouraged the cultivation of mulberries and the creation of magnaneries throughout the kingdom. Olivier de Serres was once again called on to write a short book about silk harvesting. Henri IV himself set an example by planting mulberry bushes in the Tuileries and at Fontainebleau.

Appointed to the newly-created post of contrôleur général du commerce in 1602, Laffemas set about creating manufactories in Paris, among other tasks. In 1601, Henri IV brought to Paris two hundred hand weavers originally from Flanders. They were initially installed in the Palais des Tournelles, but quickly moved to Les Gobelins on the banks of the Bièvre. This was the origin of the celebrated tapestry manufactory.

Related multimedia

Title: The Story of Artemisia, The Colossus at Rhodes

The Story of Artemisia, The Colossus at Rhodes, tapestry
© Mobilier national
Caption:
The Story of Artemisia, The Colossus at Rhodes, tapestry from Les Ateliers Parisiens, 4.87 x 6.57 m

Title: Coriolanus swears his hatred

Coriolanus swears his hatred, tapestry
© Mobilier national
Caption:
The Story of Coriolanus, Coriolanus swears his hatred, after Antoine Caron, tapestry from Les Ateliers Parisiens

Title: Sleeve in the shape of a crown

Sleeve in the shape of a crown
© Musée des manufactures de dentelles de Retournac
Caption:
Sleeve in the shape of a crown, lace crochet, 17th c.
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